How to Improve Your Climbing by Focusing on the Right Thing
One of the fastest ways to improve your climbing technique is to learn what to focus on while you're climbing.
Rather than getting lost in the details of every move on every attempt, the best climbers direct their attention toward a single outcome they want to achieve, such as finding stability before making a reach. Once they find that focus, they simply let their bodies climb.
Learning where to direct your attention on each attempt is a powerful way to make your climbing more intentional and effective.
The best climbers aren't just stronger. They're better at finding the one thing preventing them from succeeding on a move and directing all of their attention toward solving it.
Climbing is complex, and it's easy to get lost in the details. We like to believe we can think our way through difficult moves. But that's not how movement really works.
Your body is remarkably good at solving movement problems, provided you give it the right problem to solve.
That's why what you focus on matters.
Here's one example that I use all the time.
Position before reach.
I often see climbers become completely focused on grabbing the next handhold. But the real failure point isn't the reach. It's a lack of stability just before the reach.
It's like their attention is half a move ahead of where it needs to be.
Instead of thinking about grabbing the hold, think about finding a stable position first.
You can see this in a short breakdown I shared on Instagram, where Aidan Roberts focuses on stability during a crux move.
Watch what Aidan is really trying to achieve.
He's searching for a solid, stable position.
Once he finds it, the hand move becomes easy.
That's the key.
He's not just throwing himself at the move hoping something will stick.
He's solving the problem that's actually preventing him from succeeding.
This simple shift in attention can completely change the way you approach difficult moves.
The next time you're stuck on a crux, ask yourself:
What's actually stopping me?
Is it really that you can't grab the next hold?
Or are you so unstable that you could never hold it, no matter how strong you are?
Instead of repeatedly throwing yourself at the next hold, search for stability first.
Find it.
Hold it.
Then make the reach.
Remember the mantra:
Position before reach.
Thanks for reading!
Simon
P.S. Please send this to a friend! If this resonated with you, feel free to pass it along to someone who might appreciate this perspective, too. ✌️
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